CHARLIE CASELY-HAYFORD
Menswear Designer
London College of Fashion
For The Ldny project my interest in anthropology led me to create a collection focused on the very people who make London and New York the diverse habitats they are. Addressing issues of societal constructs and class division, with an emphasis on activism and civil disobedience, ‘We the People’ menswear collection celebrates the vibrant multiculturalism of these two great cities.
By utilising the unique skills of international artisans Sumac, Mantari Sweater, Jaukae Bilum, Khatan Suljee, Paradise Fashion and embroidery inspired by Varsha Mahendra, each of my designs embody their own individual character and identity.
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION, ‘Intrude’ has been inspired by the vibrant cities of New York and London in the 1920’s. Focusing on the flamboyant New York flapper lifestyle depicted by Fitzgerald in ‘The Great Gatsby’ juxtaposed with the tailored London look of the Famous 20’s character ‘Sherlock Homes’.
In an attempt to capture the two distinctive looks, I choose to collaborate with Indian artisan Anjali Sharma of French Curve for embroidery and beading influence, as it allowed me to depict the geometric artwork along with the layered use of silk chiffon.
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION ‘Pretty Vacant’, was inspired by the 1970s youth culture that was synonymous between London and New York. The birth of hip hop and punk style. Though extremely different aesthetically, the attitudes are exactly the same.
To bring the collection together, I incorporated Indian embroidery through collaboration with Varsha Mahendra and Mongolian cashmere through collaboration with Erdene-Ochir Narantuya of Snowfields. Combining my street style aesthetic and the artisans’ beautiful and rare craftsmanship, was extremely inspiring. It was exciting to think of the many possibilities.
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION, ‘TECHNO RENAISSANCE’, was inspired by the CHAP movement in London, the classic tailoring of Savile Row and the excess of the Harlem Renaissance in 1920s New York juxtaposed with Spike Jonz’s character Theodore Twombley from the film ‘Her’. Pixellated plaid as my textile concept.
I therefore incorporated NANS cashmere, through working with Nansalmaa Sanjmyatav from Mongolia. I worked with Genet Kebede of Paradise Fashion to draw in Ethiopian materials, and used the influence of Palestinian embroidery by Rehab Daqawiyeh of Artezana as I was inspired by the delicate and subtle consistency of their immaculate knitting, weaving and stitches.
London College of Fashion
STUDYING BA Fashion design development at London College of fashion, aged 21. For the Ldny collection I was inspired by ‘Chav’ and Hip Hop Cultures from New York and London and looked at the styles of Amy Winehouse and Lil Kim.
Alpaca pom poms from Peru by Sumac - Elena Calatayud and bags from Papau New Guinea by Hagen Handicrafts, Barbra Pagasa, brought luxurious fun and unique Bilum technique together created the rich textures bilum.
London College of Fashion
THE NAME of this collection is ‘Femininity in Masculinity’. The collection is based on my muse Charlie Chaplin, with inspirations from the two cities, New York and London. I worked with Nansalmaa Sanjmyatav of Nans Cashmere from Mongolia.
The cashmere gave absolute luxuriousness to my garment, given that my designs is pretty simple, I wanted it to have uniqueness in fabric by the textile and feel. I thought the cashmere would work very well.
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION, ‘Blackout’ was inspired by Gotham, the midpoint between London and New York. I incorporated Ethiopian weaving by Mahlet Afewert of Mafi Garments and Indian beading inspired by Anjali Sharma of French Curve.
I had beading detail supplied by Swarovski, to bring life through detail to an all black collection.
London College of Fashion
THE SILHOUETTE reference in my collection has been taken from Sportswear whilst design details are influenced by the contrasting footprints of New York and London.
I have used sections of Palestinian cross-stitch embroidery, influenced by Khawla Alkhatib and the work of the Business Women Forum Palestine to add texture and depth
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION was inspired by the ghetto and gangsters including Notorious B.I.G, Tupac and The Krays, tailoring is mixed with relaxed boxing wear. I incorporated weaving from Ethiopia through working
with Genet Kebede of Paradise Fashions.
I also used knitting form Peru and Bilum from Papua New Guinea through working with Florence Jaukee of Jaukee Bilum. My collaborations allowed me to reflect the rough reality of the life in the cities behind the perfect skyline.
LETICIA JACOBSON
London College of Fashion
AS A 24-year-old full-time student in BA Fashion Design and Development, my collection ‘Smoke and Mirrors’ was a chance for me, Leticia Jacobson, to create a collection inspired by the romantic, smoky atmosphere of 1920 speakeasies.
I also had the opportunity to work with talented artisans including Varsha Mahendra from India, who inspired the crystal beading supplied by Swarovski, helping to bring my garment to life.
Parsons School of Design
STARTED WITH an idea of finding what unites London and New York, “Neighbourhoods” is a collection inspired by the mix of different cultures, languages and styles of people living in various parts of both cities.
By doing that they create a certain “neighbourhood” that has its own authenticity. Thinking of Williamsburg of New York and the hip East London, Chinatowns of both cities etc.
This collection showcases not only the beauty of living in ¨melting pot”, but also what it is like to be inspired by it. I collaborated with: French Curve, first of all it is Anjali Sharma’s personality that attracted me to work with her and obviously techniques that she and her team do is just speechless. The embroidery and collection’s concept of the mix of different cultures, like denim and the Indian embroidery worked well together.
Parsons School of Design
I CHOSE Indian embroidery from Anjali Sharma of French Curve because of her high level of craftsmanship. Her multiple techniques with metal and cotton threads where the perfect approach for my embroidery design.
The embroidery design is a blend of 13 types of stitches that represent the combination of two gratifies that I found in NYC and London. Born and raised in Mexico Carmen Gama grew up in a family that helped her developed an appreciation for craftsmanship and design from an early age.
She moved to New York City to pursue her studies in Fashion Design at Parsons the New School For Design. At Parsons, Carmen has been on a learning quest of designing with a conscious approach to the environment and society.
Parsons School of Design
COLLECTION/INSPIRATION: ‘Songlines’ Being a New York Based Designer with British heritage, I found it compelling to create a collection that generates a conversation about the two cities, their inhabitants and how they are in constant movement.
This nomadic sense of displacement got me thinking about the ways in which people carry their belongings from one place to another. Although their needs may be different, everyone uses very similar methods to carry and protect the things they find to be important in their daily lives. It was these objects of transportation, the silhouettes they create and movement within them that have inspired this collection.
Artisans included in this a collection are Genet Kebede, Paradise Fashions in Ethiopia and Rehab Daqawiyeh, Artezana in Palestine.
Parsons School of Design
COLLECTION: THE Nomadic Space. The Nomadic Space is an exploration of the intangible space between London and New York. The distance between the two cities is the energy in which excites individuals to want to create new meaning within the other cities’ space.
Space is made tangible through distance, shown by the elongated top stitched seams that stretches across the length of the dress, and distance is made tangible through the touch of the braille lettered print, embroidered by traditional Palestinian techniques.
The silhouettes are light, but their volume and weight resonates the energy of both cities. Both Rehab Daqawiyeh, Artezana for Embroideries and Handicrafts Hand Sewing from Palestine and Mahlet Afework Gebremichael, Mafi from Ethiopia are integral artisans for representing the tangible space and energy between London and New York through their traditional techniques of embroidery and weave.
Artisan craft and modern silhouettes are combined to connect both cities energy to reinvent the new norm of international collaborative effort.
Parsons School of Design
THE NAME of my collection is Neo Nomad Business traveller flying from New York to London. I worked with Elena Calatayud Rosado of Sumac, Peru.
Elena has exceptional Knitting skills which helped me to add textures, richness, and completeness into my garments. The knit also has the possibility to be developed and mixed with natural fibers to create new materials.
Parson School of Design
DISPATCH - In excavating the parallels between London and New York, we found intersections of culminating cultures in the humble character of the delivery man. The notion of the delivery man encapsulates the spirit of both cities as a symbol of diversity, and the multi-national demographic that is the foundation of both London and New York. Dispatch looks at the day-to-day of the delivery man, and in a larger context, maps the roots and routes of what embodies London and New York life.The collection emphasizes the need for adaptability and mobility, with transitional pieces that speak to the essence of migratory patterns familiar to urban city dwellers. The collection also celebrates the inevitable reliance on commutation which is intrinsic to both cities, personified through the daily movement of the delivery man.
ARTISANS we worked with The woven textiles from Mahlet Afework Gebremichael from Mafi, Ethiopia the Peruvian Alpaca from Elena Calatayud Rosado of Sumac, Peru the Indian embroidery inspired by Varsha Mahendra.
Parson School of Design
THIS COLLECTION is about interpretation and communication. I sent letters back and forth to a friend in London, discussing the differences and similarities we encountered between our two cities. In the end it was the communication itself, and the connections we were able to make which inspired my collection.
I learned that we both had our own interpretation of each other’s city, and using the letters we wrote as a form of pattern, a collection began to form. I chose to work with the Elena Calatayud Rosado of Sumac from Peru.
I’ve enjoyed working with knitwear in the past, and upon meeting with the artisans I knew this would be an interesting fit for my collection. The interpretation and communication continued as I collaborated with the artisans, which enabled my initial inspiration to come full circle.
Parsons School of Design
MY CONNECTION with London is that a part of my family lives there. Our communication is solely digital, and I miss the tactility of their presence. TIES and LONGINGS became a starting point for silhouette development.
Toying with proportions of cascading ties, I married a tailored coat and a kimonointo a modern kaftan, a classic sweatshirt and a dresshirt in a featherweight tunic, fitting jeans and relaxed sweatpants in a pair of luxe denim chinos. A precious artisan fabric is placed the closest to the body, as lining or fringe, that pops in the movement. Nothing is over constructed or hard edged, rather, it is about piece dressing with a chic attitude.
I chose a rose motif on a 3d raised embroidery inspired from Rehab Daqawiyeh of Artezana for Embroideries and Handicrafts Hand Sewing from Palestine in a rainbow of “happy” colors. I left the original artwork almost untouched, slghtly altering the scale and the color scheme, to cherish the artisan’s contribution to “Happy”.
Parsons School of Design
My Ldny collection was inspired by the digital communication process between London and New York; how visual and verbal information are transformed into abstract computer language.
The two cities coexist with each other not in their physical forms but by the huge amount of information that are exchanged everyday. From there I interviewed family and friends who live in London and New York about what in their opinion represent the two cities. Then I picked out key elements from the interviews, shot photography interpretation of these elements, and turned them into abstract glitch art using Photoshop.
The graphic in my chosen design was originally a picture of a lawn chair.
I thought weaving such abstract and technology-driven designs is a great opportunity for the artisans to explore and create modern artworks that can cater to younger costumers. I worked with Genet Kebede of Paradise Fashion Ethiopia.
Parsons School of Design
“INTO THE Blue”, the inaugural collection of the design duo - David Valencia and Leonid Batekhin. The designers were inspired by the energy of London and New York, two cities with different flavors but with a shared essence.
The designers took the idea of the sky as the medium to connect London with New York, and explored it throughout the collection in color, texture, and silhouette construction.
Artisans we collaborated with: “Into the Blue” by VALENCIA BATEKHIN has been designed in New York and incorporates beautiful Ethiopian hand woven textiles from Genet Kebede from Paradise Fashion, Mongolian cashmere from Nansalmaa Sanjmyatav of Nans Cashmere and unique prints, all created exclusively for the LDNY project.
London College of Fashion
MY COLLECTION, ‘Intrude’ has been inspired by the vibrant cities of New York and London in the 1920’s. Focusing on the flamboyant New York flapper lifestyle depicted by Fitzgerald in ‘The Great Gatsby’ juxtaposed with the tailored London look of the Famous 20’s character ‘Sherlock Homes’.
In an attempt to capture the two distinctive looks, I choose to collaborate with Indian artisan Anjali Sharma of French Curve for embroidery and beading influence, as it allowed me to depict the geometric artwork along with the layered use of silk chiffon.
"Parson's is delighted to be partnering with the Ldny Foundation, this competition is truly unique and empowers our students as well as the artisans."
SIMON COLLINS
Parsons School of Design
"When we were first approached to take part in the Ldny initiative, it quickly became clear how closely it reflected our own ethos of Better Lives – using fashion to drive change, build a sustainable future and improve the way we live. Through this partnership we have been extremely proud to partner with the UN’s Women and Trade Programme which has brought together our womenswear and menswear students with artisans from places such as Ethiopia and Kenya."
FRANCES CORNER OBE
Head of London College of Fashion
"Working on this unique and important project for the Ldny Festival as part of the curriculum, our students have had access to enviable opportunities and experiences. This hugely exciting project has brought second year students from the BA (Hons) Fashion Design and Development course together with the UN-s Women and Trade program to actively collaborate and achieve desirable designs in both womenswear and menswear."
PAUL MCNICOLL
Dean of the School of Design & Technology
YVONNE WATSON
Fashion Associate Dean and Associate
Professor of Fashion
"When we welcomed to Parsons The New School for Design, the ITC women entrepreneurs from around the globe, I was very present to how these women embodied the above quote. They collectively came to share their creative expertise, joy and passion for their craft, with the Parsons students engaged in the Ldny project, which they did with great enthusiasm and generosity."
The Legacy Collection is a unique collection born out of the collaborative efforts and talents of students from London College of Fashion and Parsons School of Design and amazing artisans from Mongolia, Peru, India, Ethiopia and
Papua New Guinea
WINNING DESIGNERS
FROM LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION & PARSONS SCHOOL OF DESIGN
CAMERON RUSSELL
Fashion Model
JUDGES
The competition judges comprised of a stellar of lineup of UK and US fashion industry experts.
CHARLIE
CASEY-HAFORD
Fashion Designer
JOE
WAHLA
Merchandising Professional
WILLIAM
TEMPEST
Fashion Designer
JULIE
GILHART
Fashion Director
SCOTT MACKINLAY
Founder of Loomstate
ASHLEY
WICK
Communications Consultants
Laura
Weir
British Fashion Journalist
MELISSA
ODABASH
Fashion Designer